The Tops of Riga

When speaking about Riga, the capital of Latvia, there are things and places within the city which stand above the rest. One of them and unique only to Riga is the city’s silhouette. It is dominated by many churches whose towers reach to the sky and whose golden roosters perched atop of the church spires are a very well known symbol of Riga and by other impressive structures. Those which make up the panorama are the following:

Sv. Petera baznica (Saint Peters Church 13 – 20 centuries) located at Skarnu Street 19. Its baroque-style tower was constructed by Ruperts Bindensu from Strasburg and at one time was the tallest wood construction in Europe. The tower was destroyed during WWII and was renewed as a metal construction in the 20^th century. Today one can go to the top of the tower for a panoramic view.

Riga Dom Cathedral (13 – 19^th centuries) at Dom laukums 1. It towers over Dom laukums (Dom Square). It is the farthest cathedral in Northern Europe with a cross gallery. It was renovated at the end of the 19^th century and a statue was set up commemorating Riga’s founder Bishop Albert. Since the 1960s the cathedral has also been used as a concert hall with 1,500 seats. The E.F. Walcker & Co. organ (1884) was once the largest in the world.

Sv. Jekaba Romas Katolu Katedrale (St. Jacob’s Roman Catholic Cathedral13^th – 18^th centuries)) is the fourth largest church in Old Town. Since the Latvian language uses the same name for James and Jacob this cathedral is also called St. James’s Cathedral or the Cathedral Basilica of St. James and is dedicated to Saint James the Greater. The church building was dedicated in 1225. It is located at Jekaba (Jacob’s) Street 9.

Rigas pils (Riga Castle) at Pils laukums (Castle Square) 3. Since 1918 it has been the residence of Latvia’s presidents. In 1938 architect Eizens Laubers constructed the Tris Zvaigznu tornis (Three Star Tower) which is part of Latvia’s coat of arms and symbolizes three Latvian regions – Vidzeme, Kurzeme and Latgale.

Ratsnams (Town Hall) (1750 1765; 2000 – 2003) at Ratslaukums (Town Hall Square 1). This building was severely damaged during WWII and was knocked down. In its place was built Rigas Politehniska instituta laboratoriju korpuss (Rigas Politechnical Institution’s Laboratory Building). At the end of the 20^th century Ratsnams was rebuilt to look just as it did in the 19^th century.

Sv. Pestitaja anglikanu baznica (St. Savior’s Anglican Church 1852 -1859)at Anglikanu (Anglican) Street 2a. This church was built in Neo-gothic style and had a congregation of English people who lived in Riga and English sailors. To build it bricks, stones and even earth was brought from England. In the 1970s the church became a club for students from Riga Politechnical Institution and was once again used as a church from 1992.

Sv. Marijas-Magdelenas Romas Katolu baznica (St. Mary-Magdalene’s Roman Catholic Church 13^th – 17^th centuries) at Klostera (Cloister) Street 2. The beginnings of this church lie in the foundation of the Cistern Cloister. It is said that the church was named after Liv Chief Kaupo’s granddaughter Magdalene who donated money to have it built.

Sapju Dievmates Romas katolu baznica (The Church of the Sorrowful Virgin) at Pils (Castle) Street 5. The church was built in 1785 in the place where the original moat was that once separated Riga Castle from the rest of the city.

Sv. Jana Luterana baznica (St. John’s Lutheran Church 14^th – 17^th centuries) at Jana (John) Street 7. This is the oldest Lutheran church in Riga. It consists of two parts one built in Gothic style and one in the Renaissance. The altar was built in 1759 in Rococo style. The church has a cross shaped window which tells the tale of two fanatical monks who in the 15^th century were interred alive in a wall leaving a narrow opening through which they were fed bread. When the monks no longer made any sound the opening was closed.

Zinatnu akademijas augstceltne (Latvian Academy of Sciences) at Akademijas (Academy) Square 1.

Together all of the above mentioned churches and buildings make up the so familiar and unique Riga skyline.

The Old Town of Riga is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Its narrow streets are full of history and architectural wonder. Ratslaukums (Town Hall Square) has had the most changes throughout history. In the 30s all the buildings along the streets from Town Hall Square to the Daugava were knocked down to begin major reconstruction. This was all interrupted by WWII. Torna (Tower) Street this street leads on past what has been left of the city wall, Jekaba kazarmas (Jacob’s Barracks) to Zviedru varti (The Swedish Gate) which was a passage opened in the city wall to give people and their animals easy access to the fields outside of the city for grazing. Kalku (Chalk) Street has the lovely Livu Square. WWII did a lot of damage to the Old Town but it also left space to form this square. At first it was called Philharmonic Square because it was not far from the Philharmonic Concert Hall. It was renamed Livu Square in the 80s. It is a place tourists enjoy because it gives one postcard views all around. Valnu (Rampart) Street is the banking center of Riga. On all four corners of Valnu and Kalku Streets are banks. The corner where Valnu Street, Aspazijas and Basteja Boulevards come together is a popular meeting place. Here since the 30s stands the Riga chocolate factory “Laima” clock and people tend to wait for each other here. It is also the corner from which one can see The Freedom Monument, Old Town and The Latvian National Opera. Pulvertornis (Gunpowder Tower) is a reminder left behind that Riga was once a fortress. This tower was built 13^th – 17^th centuries. Its walls are three meters thick. It protected the eastern entrance to the city along Smilsu (Sand) Road and was once called Sand Tower. In 1919 it was used as the Latvian War Museum with a museum building constructed alongside in 1938. On Skarnu (Butchers’) Street there are several art galleries, cafes, restaurants and a tea house. Here you can also see the gift to Riga from Bremen, Germany – a bronze statue of the “Bremen Musicians”. On Maza Pils (Little Castle) Street there are several churches and pastor residences. Tris Brali (Three Brothers) is the oldest residential complex in Riga. These are three buildings on Maza Pils Street. The Latvian Museum of Architecture is located here. Pils laukums (Castle Square) at the Riga Castle was used as a place for military maneuvers. Riga Castle is now the residence of Latvia’s presidents. Latviesu Strelnieku laukums (Latvian Riflemen Square) – this square was once called Old Town Square but was renamed when a memorial to Latvia’s Red Riflemen was built in the 70s.

Doma laukums (Dom Square) is the largest square in the Old Town. Eight streets radiate out from the square. Looming over it is Riga Dom Cathedral. Other prominent buildings near the square are the Ministry of Finance, Latvian Radio Building, and SEB Bank. The construction of Riga Dom Cathedral began in 1211. The eastern end of the cathedral is in Romanesque style and the north end in Gothic. Along with the cathedral a cloister was built around whose courtyard stretches the Cross Gallery. The cathedral was built on a hill but today its foundations are several meters under street level. The 13^th century Gothic portal which is the main entrance appears to be sunk into the earth. Here in the cathedral is the final resting place of Bishops Albert and Meinhard as well as many leaders of the Baltic landed gentry, who gave donations in order to gain immortality for their names and their coats of arms. All of the lovely stained glass windows were donated by the Guilds, the Town Council or private individuals.

Along the Riga City Canal are many prominent buildings and its banks are a popular place for city people to relax. The canal starts at the Daugava near the Central Market. Near the canal one can find The Latvian National Opera which was reconstructed from 1993 – 2001. In front of the opera are the lovely opera gardens. There are paths to walk on and benches to sit and relax on. The Timma or Opera Bridge built in 1900 is a small bridge that spans the canal. It leads to or from the opera. The bridge got its name from Professor C.V. Timma who donated money for the construction. In the opera garden one can find a statue of George Armitsted (1847 – 1912) who was one of the most popular and meaningful mayor’s in Riga’s history. During his time Riga experienced a boom in which schools, hospitals, tram lines and communication systems were built. The statue in his honor was constructed in 2006 and was dedicated by Queen Elizabeth I. It shows Armitsted and his wife walking with their dog.

Walking over the Timma Bridge toward Raina Street one can see on the opposite side a well-known and important structure at Raina Street 19 – The University of Latvia. It was constructed from 1866 – 1909. At the front of the building one can see the Coats of Arms of Estonia, Livonia and Kurzeme (one of the four regions of Latvia). On the roof of the university is an observation cupola.

Bastejkalns was erected when in the 19^th century dirt from the Riga ramparts was dumped to form a hill and a park was created with the Riga Canal running through it. Today there are man-made waterfalls in the park and ducks and swans swim in the canal. In the summer tourists can rent rowboats or paddle-boats to navigate the canal and there is a summer café.

The Latvian National Theater at Kronvalda Boulevard 2 was built as the Riga City’s II or Russian Theater in 1901. It was constructed similar to other European theaters. Here on November 18, 1919 Latvia declared her independence.

The Kergalavja Pavilion was built at its present location on Kalpaka Boulevard in 1901 as part of the Industry and Trade Exposition held in honor of Riga’s 700 birthday. This pavilion is now the only thing left at this site to remind people of the exposition. The Kergalvja Pavillion stands between the Congress Building and Riga’s Free Port Administration building.

The World Trade Center “Riga” was built in 1974 and at that time was known as Latvia’s Communist Party Central Committee building. It was built to resemble the UNESCO building in Paris.

The Ministry of Foreign Affairs was built in 1913 in the neoclassical style. It is located at K. Valdemara Street 3. On the building are written the words Concordia, res parvae crescent (Work together to accomplish more).

Andrejsala is a territory to the north of Riga’s center which at one time was an industrial port. Among the buildings now found here are a youth hostel called “Sing Along” and many different exhibition halls. There is also the Innocent Art Museum which is located in the former port’s building.

The most famous landmark in Riga is The Freedom Monument in the center of Riga on Brivibas (Freedom) Boulevard. It was erected in the place where during WWI once stood a sculpture of Peter I. The monument’s sculptor was Karlis Zale and the architect Ernests Stalbergs. They constructed it from 1930 – 1935 and it is made of granite, travertine, copper and gold. On the very front of the monument which faces toward the Old Town is engraved “Tevzemei un Brivibai” (For Fatherland and Freedom). The large plaza in front of the Freedom Monument is used for public gatherings and official ceremonies. At the foot of the monument there stands the guard of honor –soldiers (working in shifts) from The Company of Guard of Honor of the Headquarters Battalion of the National Armed Forces. There are separate sculptures and bas-reliefs all around the monument which depict Latvian culture and history. On the bottom half of the monument along the side are depicted the most important moments in Latvian history –two travertine reliefs show Latvian riflemen, the Latvian people as a nation of singer then the Russian Revolution of 1905 andThe Battle against the Bermontians on the Iron Bridge (this refers to the battle in Riga during Latvia’s fight for independence). Then there is a three figure sculpture which faces the northwest called “Chain breakers” showing three chained men trying to break free. Fatherland’s Guards which depict a standing ancient Latvian soldier with two present day Latvian soldiers on their knees besides him with their swords raised. “Work” shows a fisherman, a craftsman and a farmer who hold a scythe decorated with oak leaves and acorns which symbolize strength and manhood.” Intellectual Workers” shows a prophet with the wisdom of the ages etched in his features. “Family” shows a mother standing between her two sons. “Latvia” depicts a woman in whose one hand is a sword with which she protects her homeland and in the other – a sheaf of grain which is the symbol of bread and wealth for farmers. “Lacplesis” (“Bear-Slayer”) is an epic Latvian folk hero which was written by Andrejs Pumpurs in 1888. “Vaidelotis and a Youth” depicts a Baltic pagan priest who having found a boy in the woods raises him as a hero. “Briviba” (“Freedom”)on the top most block the high monolithic travertine column on which stands the copper figure of a woman who has been called “Milda” by the Latvian people looking toward the east, her arms raised and holding three gilded with gold stars symbolizing Courland or Kurzeme, Vidzeme and Latgale. She is 43 m high.

The Latvian National Art Museum on K. Valdemara Street was built in the Baroque style. Here one can view a great collection of paintings by Latvians, Baltic Germans and Russians.

The Central Market and surrounding area. The Central Market has five main pavilions – meat, dairy, gastronomy, fruits and vegetables and fish. Outside in the large market area are many tables from which are also sold fruits and vegetables which come from farms among other items like plants, seeds and such.

An impressive sight is the Railroad Bridge crossing the Daugava which was built in 1872.

Right in front of the Central Market is the Bus Terminal built in the typical 60s Soviet style. At the moment this is the only bus station from which one can also travel on to Europe.

Nearby is the Central Railway Station which also includes the “Origo” shopping mall. From the railway station one can travel to different parts of Latvia and on to Lithuania.

Across from the Central Railway Station is the Stockmann Department Store and Kino Citadele Cinemas – a multi-movie complex. Underneath Stockmann’s runs the City Canal along which you can walk to the Central Market.

“Sarkanie Spikeri” (no real translation – Red Spikeri) between Krasta, Maskavas and Turgeneva Streets is an area of many warehouses.

The Latvian Academy of Sciences was built in the 50s. It is a tall, large impressive building and houses the association of the country’s foremost scientists. This was the first skyscraper in Latvia.

On Gogola Street is an Russian orthodox church with many towers and cupolas.

Finally in this particular area is “Latgalite” which is a small trading place that sells everything imaginable under the sun. Used pipes and tires, new items needed for plumbing, electronics, used books and so on.

Next worth mentioning is an area in Riga that has great Jugendstil architecture. Mostly seen on Alberta, Elizabetes and Strelnieku Streets.

Bralu Kapi – Brothers’ Cemetery or The Cemetery of the Brethren. Here lie soldiers from WWII. On the central front gate is the Coat of Arms of the Latvia and the years 1915 – 1920 which were the years of the Latvian Riflemen Battalion. On either side of the gates one can see soldiers holding flags and shields to honor fallen soldiers. The main pathway is called ‘Seru aleja’ (Sorrow Avenue) and is lined with linden trees. It ends at the Holy Fire Altar where 150 oaks stand at attention. The Eternal Light stands by the main burial area. There is a 10 m high statue called Mate Latvia (Mother Latvia). In one hand she holds a flag of triumph in the other a wreath for her fallen sons.

A definite must see is The Open-Air Museum which was founded in 1924 and has over 114 buildings depicting how people lived in Latvia in the days gone by. There are different areas showing life in the regions of Vidzeme, Kurzeme, Zemgale and Latgale. The buildings in these areas are from the 17^th – 20^th centuries. Churches, schools, farm buildings, windmills among many other structures can be seen.